Fabrication

At Suverna, our design aesthetic meticulously draws inspiration from the rich heritage of Banarasi textile traditions. Many of our weaves exude a distinctly traditional charm, but each piece is distinguished by its artistic flair, authentic materials, and exquisite craftsmanship—a testament to our profound expertise.

Design Creation:

The designing phase holds paramount importance in the art of weaving a saree. We often gravitate towards motifs and patterns that possess a timeless appeal, striving to create textiles that remain unaffected by fleeting trends. We embrace cherished motifs and placements that convey the collective cultural memory, values, and origins.

Once the design to be woven is finalized, whether through hand-drawn sketches or digital production, it is meticulously transcribed onto large inch-wise graph paper. This process, known as "Likhai," is carried out by a grapher, locally referred to as a "Nakshaband." The Naksha, meticulously crafted and precise, serves as a blueprint for the design. It is then digitally programmed into our high-speed rapier jacquard looms, which offer enhanced performance and unrivaled accuracy. These advanced looms can translate intricate patterns and designs onto the fabric with remarkable precision.

Materials:

The procurement of raw materials and meticulous assessment of their usability follow as the next crucial step. The process commences with the selection of silk yarn, which comes in various qualities and is sourced from different production centers. Raw silk undergoes special treatment for brocades, necessitating significant patience and labor. The cost of raw materials varies based on the chosen yarn and zari.

Reeling:

During the reeling process, the threads are individually mounted on the reeling machine. For the warp (tana), the yarn is rolled onto a shuttle (dharki). As for the weft (bana), the yarn is initially mounted on a charka and then wound onto a bobbin.

Dyeing:

Dyeing the yarn in specific colors involves immersing the reel or cheese of yarn into the dyeing tank.

Weaving:

The most intricate stage of the entire process is weaving, where the saree is skillfully crafted on our high-speed rapier jacquard looms. These advanced looms offer superior performance and high accuracy, ensuring the precise translation of the intricate designs onto the fabric. The tana (warp), comprising the longitudinal threads, is held in tension on the loom and raised. The bana (weft), consisting of the latitudinal threads, is inserted using the rapier mechanism. As the loom swiftly moves, the warp and weft threads intertwine to create the fabric, faithfully reproducing the intricacies of the design.

Iterations: The selection and harmonization of colors within a pattern, which we fondly refer to as "Meena-matching," constitute an integral part of our design process and significantly influence the overall aesthetic appeal of a handwoven textile.

Once a pattern is designed, graphed with a specific color scheme in mind, and set up on the loom, individual colors are meticulously chosen for each element. A swatch is woven to assess the choices. After several iterations and extensive discussions between the design team and weavers, a beautiful saree comes to fruition.

Finishing:

Depending on the weaving technique employed, Banarasi sarees undergo the final stage of cutting. This entails manually trimming the tiny threads on the reverse side of the fabric. The sarees are then carefully folded and packaged.